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Bearded Dragons Care: What You Should Know About Them
In captivity bearded dragons are quite docile and tend to be demonstrative. You get the "welcome" raising a hand and making a circular motion as if saluting. Their fingernails can be long and sharp, but can be cut as the iguanas. Their life expectancy varies between four and 10 years depending on care and nutrition they receive.
Adults reach a height between 45 and 60 cm to two years old. A dragon needs a tank of 180 liters minimum, but it's better if you have a larger one (ideally the 250 liters). For your pet not to escape you must put a lid to allow ventilation. The substrate most adequate, for young dragons are strips of paper or synthetic turf carpet outside, you must take care that no loose strands that could be swallowed. Do not use any materials that can be eaten as chips of wood, nutshells, etc... Be especially careful with young ones because they are more likely to swallow objects for curiosity or ignorance. Feces should be collected with a shovel and clean the tank completely several times a year.
For a porper bearded dragons care we should keep in mind that this reptiles need an environment with a branch, rock or log climbing, which is located in the warmest part of the habitat. They also like to have one or two places to hide and some plant as way of decoration.
Like other reptiles, they require illumination with UVA / UVB. You can use special fluorescent tubes that are sold in pet stores. The dragon should be able to be at 15-20 cm close of the tube to take enough radiation. These tubes must be changed according to the manufacturer because the amount of ultraviolet rays emitted decreases with time. You can also use mercury bulbs; they also heat and last longer. It is good that these reptiles can be exposed to direct sunlight. Here, should have access to shade and shelter to basking. Never place the glass tank in the sun because it overheats.
The enclosure must have a temperature gradient to be between 26 and 30 º C in the cooler area and 35-40 º C in the warmest. During the night temperature drops to 18-21 º C. You can use incandescent lamps, ceramic heaters and bulbs of mercury and need two thermometers to check temperatures throughout the terrarium. Surely you will have to make adjustments in the voltage and distance from sources of heat until you get the proper temperatures. You have to give between 12 and 14 hours of light daily. A good option is to manage the lamps using a timer.
Water is supplied in flat dishes. If you prefer spraying the environment, do it very gently to avoid creating over moisture in the enclosure.
Dragons are omnivorous animals; they can eat insects and small animals and vegetables. The captive young dragons can eat worms, if possible newborns, so that they have not developed the skeleton of chitin and can cause intestinal impaction. Crickets should not be too large for the same reason. As a general rule you can say that any insect should be larger than the distance between the eyes of the dragon.
Adults can eat a wide variety of worms and earthworms (silkworm pupae of wax moth, meal worm, worm meat). However, the bulk of the diet should always be crickets. Occasionally they can provide a newborn mouse.
It is important to feed the dragons when the temperature is within the range of day because they need external heat for good digestion. The vegetables can be available 24 hours, while insects are given once a day for adults and two for young ones, calculating the amount they can eat in ten minutes. Insects must have the "full stomach" with a nutritious food so these nutrients pass to the dragons, and also dusted with a supplement of vitamin D and calcium in each serving. Once a week, consider also adding a multivitamin. Be careful if you collect wild insects as they may be contaminated with pesticides. Never give them fireflies because they can be toxic.
The serving of vegetables is estimated at 20 to 30% of the total diet. Prepares a salad that may contain dandelion leaves, chicory, mustard, turnip, endive, parsley and other vegetables such as squash, carrots, green beans or peas and fruits such as berries, apples, grapes, melons, papayas, blueberries or bananas. All these are chopped and administered on a flat plate.
More and more commercial diets available, but until it is known whether in the long run are good, varied diet is recommended which may include such foods as a supplement.
About the Author
Ted Hudson is the chief editor of http://www.iguanaspet.com, site that have the latest information about how to care your iguana, feel free to visit us at anytime.
