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Gothic Fairy Pictures
"Take 5" with Terry de Havilland
Terry de Havilland is a rock star among shoe designers. The biggest names in music fell in love with his shoes in the 70s. He partied with the guys from Led Zeppelin and designed the shoes they rocked out in. In between his couture design business and his new Autumn/Winter 2011 line, we got the London-based "Rock n' Roll Cobbler" to slow down for a minute and "Take 5."
Mimi
How did you become the "Rock n' Roll Cobbler?"
I guess my designs just appealed to the rock set. The more flamboyant and sexy the designs became the more popular they were with the rock chicks. In the 70s Kings Road was definitely the place to hang out. Led Zep's management Swansong had their office there, next to Granny Takes a Trip, who dressed everyone. Then there was Paradise Garage, Alkazura, Anthony Price and the infamous Roebuck pub where we all used to hang out.
I opened my shop Terry de Havilland – Cobblers to the World in 1972. The interior looked like a Venetian bordello – all peach mirror glass, a pink tented ceiling, oversized crystal chandelier and purple studded velvet banquette seating. It was a hit with the rock stars who used to hang out while their girls spent their money on my shoes. In the mid 70s, I launched my range of men's footwear that was equally as flamboyant with lots of python detailing, Cuban heels and stacked platforms which proved just as popular. Everyone from Bonzo from Led Zep, to Johnny Bindon, to Keith Moon, to Ginger Baker, Tim Curry, Rudolf Nureyev and bizarrely Demis Roussos used to wear them.
Nisha
Out of all the shoes you've created, which pair stands out the most?
I've never been a shrinking violet when it comes to my designs and they were all pretty "out there." There were embroidered dragon wedges, glitter high-heeled stiletto cowgirl boots, metallic snakeskin platforms, lightning bolt sandals with spring heels, even a pair of flashing light wedged sandals with mercury tilt switches. It's almost impossible to pick a favourite . They all made their own statement.
Roxie
Tell me about your lineage in shoemaking/your path to where you are now.
It all started back in the 1940s when my dad used to make shoes for the Windmill Girls during the war. I guess he was pretty rock n' roll too in his own way. I learnt everything from him and his designs still influence me to this day. It was his 40s platforms and wedges that inspired me to bring them back in the late 60s updated in acid trip-inspired colours and shapes. I worked with him from 1960 until his untimely death in 1970. He was electrocuted in the factory and died in my arms. So I took over the business and launched the original Terry de Havilland brand which was extremely successful until 1980 when it fell victim to a global recession.
I then set up Kamikazi shoes which specialised in alternative footwear for punks and Goths. It was a very successful brand turning out over 800 pairs a day from my London-based factory and selling all over the world. In 1990, I launched the Magic Shoe Company also specialising in alternative footwear. I developed the first commercial range of latex thigh boots and brought back block-heeled platforms using holographic fabrics and light reflective leather for the Cybergoths. I designed Transmuter Boots with huge stacked wedges and spiked rubber panels – which were worn by Marilyn Manson. It was a crazy decade and I had a lot of fun.
On Christmas Eve 2000, I suffered a minor heart attack and decided that it was time to get back to my roots and start designing in my own name again. The timing seemed right somehow and I could see a lot of referencing of my work from the 70s starting to appear on the runways. My vintage shoes were fetching silly amounts in auction houses. I had more shoes in museums than I had in shops so I decided to give it one more go. Initially I made the shoes on a made-to-order basis, throwing Cocktails and Heels parties in various locations. All the shoes were handmade in London. Then in 2004, following a BBC documentary, I entered into a licensing agreement and the Terry de Havilland brand was re-launched.
After the licensing agreement came to an end I decided to take control of the brand again and have now brought it back in-house. As well as my ready to wear range, I still make custom-made footwear in London. All the designs are done in my London based studio and I make all the prototypes myself. I'm having a lot of fun again.
Tammy
Tell me about your connection to the rock n' roll world (and what it's like having Led Zeppelin rock your shoes).
The rock n' roll connection just somehow happened. I can't remember how – I was there at the time. I guess I was as crazy as them. I had some really mad times hanging out with Bonzo when Led Zep were touring America in the 70s. One time when I was in New York doing a trade show I hooked up with Bonzo for the evening. I vaguely remember saying "That's it Bonzo, I'm off home" to him after we'd polished off a bottle of brandy. I vaguely remember running for a plane at JFK airport. I always carried my passport and ticket with me. I woke up at Heathrow and couldn't work out where my luggage had gone. When I phoned my factory they're like "What are you doing back in London? You're meant to be in New York until the end of the week". Bonkers. Bonzo was a total lunatic and took no prisoners!
If you were going on a trip around the world, what five pairs of shoes would you take from your closet?
I'd personally take 2 pairs for myself:
1. My crystal commando creepers which are versions of the ones I designed for Martin Gore for the Depeche Mode "Tour of the Universe" gigs last year.
2. My black leather and python Cuban-heeled boots with the words "F*** You" in crystal on the soles.
Then I'd take 3 pairs for my old lady Liz:
1. The Crystal Emmas
Emma
2. The Dagger Gemmas
Dagger Gemma
3. The gold python Margaux.
Margaux Python
-Kristie Griffith
About the Author
